The stages of Ageing

Three Levels of Hydration

There are three different characteristics of the levels of hydration on the surface of the skin

As we age the levels of sebum production within the skin will diminish or go haywire according to external stimuli and environment.

If you can distinguish between these inherent levels of hydration according to your age you will know which moisturizer will suit your skin as you go through these skin ages.   You will then be well on the way to knowing how to take care of your skin with the right moisturizer.

Passive Hydration

Let’s talk about the passive hydration of young skins.  This stage is from teenage years to mid-’20s

So, what is passive hydration?  It is when sebum, the skin’s natural oil mixes with water (perspiration) to form what we refer to as ‘the only truly natural skincare cream’.  This hydro-lipidic layer passively slows moisture loss from the skin to ensure healthy levels of hydration in the epidermis.  It is not an impervious barrier; it allows the exchange of oxygen, carbon dioxide and water vapor with the environment.

On young skins that have not been impaired this happens naturally and prevents trans epidermal water loss (TEWL).

A moisturizer for a young skin should mimic this natural sebum production to help prevent trans epidermal water loss, protect the skin and prevent problems.

At Dermal Essence, we note during your skin analysis which stage of hydration you are experiencing and prescribe the appropriate moisturizer for you.

Direct Hydration

As the skin ages, we start to lose some of this natural passive moistening factor, and this is when your skincare can benefit from a Direct moisturizer. This stage usually starts to happen about the age of 25 through to 40 years of age depending on the effects of lifestyle and ageing.

The Direct Hydration treatments we start to introduce prevent the aging processes of loss of collagen and elastin.  The hydration of the epidermis is further enhanced by chemicals found in the hydro-lipid layer.  Within this hydro-lipid layer, the only truly natural skincare cream are chemicals known as amino acids, urea, sodium PCA and more.  These chemicals attract moisture from the deep layers of the skin (dermis) into the surface (epidermis) hang onto the moisture there and slow evaporation into the environment.

We will prescribe a good skincare product that will compensate by including some of these NMF – chemicals into the formulation of the cream for Direct Moisture

Active Hydration 

Active Hydration is required as the skin ages and this is usually around the ages of 40 +years.  Active hydration refers to the hydration provided by glycosaminoglycans which are found in the skin.  The best known of these is hyaluronan; it can bind up to 1000 times its own weight in water.  Levels of HA also decrease with advancing age, the skin loses its plump and youthful appearance.

At Dermal Essence our Active High-quality Dr Spiller skincare products will include hyaluronan.  Hyaluronan is a protein; the molecule is too large to penetrate the skin.  However, the ingredient can still be of value by binding water on the surface of the skin and thereby contributing to normal healthy hydration levels by preventing moisture loss.

The combination of these three modes of hydration – passive, direct and active when supplied in light water in oil cream will give the best long-term results and leave the skin plump, radiant and healthy-looking.

References to levels of hydration are from Omniderm

This article was written by Patricia Boehler

If you are not sure about the correct hydration of you skin book your consultation now

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